By: Andrew Mostad
Contents:
Purpose
What is Belaying
Assumptions
Basic Equipment
Partner Safety Checks
Communication
Belaying Motion
Conclusion
Links
Purpose:
This blog is meant to be used as a basic introduction to belaying. It will discuss the what belaying is, and how you do it. However, this blog is not to be used, on it's own, as a guide to belaying. This is simply a basic overview that can be used to familiarize yourself with the ideas behind belaying. If you are going to learn how to belay, I strongly suggest signing up for a belay course at your local climbing gym.
What is Belaying:
Dictionary.com says this about belaying.
Belaying is the act of securing your partner, using a rope, to minimize falls or the danger of falls. A belayer is the person who is holding the rope, keeping their partner (the climber) safe.
Assumptions:
I will be assuming various things:
1. The reader has a basic knowledge of climbing jargon.
2. The reader has seen belaying done before.
3. The reader knows the basic layout of a harness.
Basic Equipment:
When climbers first started, all they had was a hemp rope tied around their waists. As you can imagine, technology has made the sport of rock climbing much safer, and belaying much easier. You will need:
1. One rope, preferably a dynamic climbing rope, usually about 60 metres in length
2. One harness
3. One belay device, you can use gri-gri's, ATC's (Air Traffic Controllers, no joke) or another of your choice
4. Two carabiners, at least one must be locking.
This is list is for one person. However, things like ropes can be shared between two or more well-trusted friends.
For prices, and some tips on care and maintenance, visit MEC's website, or talk to the climbing expert in your local outdoor store.
Partner Safety Checks:
Even the best climbers can make mistakes while setting up. Consistently checking your partner before every climb is a must, and most good climbers will thank you for taking the time to check over their equipment.
There are two very simple acronyms that will help you remember what checks you must perform. The first is ABCD and is used to check the belayer:
A=Anchor
B=Buckles
C=Carabiner
D=Device
The Anchor must be on the belay loop of the harness, below the belay device. The anchor line (which is attached to the floor/ground) must also be tight and secure.
The harness Buckles must be double-backed and secured as per the instructions attached to the harness.
The Carabiner attached to the belay device must be loaded correctly, and locked.
And finally, the belay Device must be loaded correctly, with the rope running through it the correct way, and attached to the carabiner.
The second acronym you use is Naughty Boy (Pronounced Knot-Tee-Boy)
Knot: Has to be tied correctly (see here for instructions)
Tee: The rope is through the Tie-in points on the harness (see here for instructions)
Boy: The buckles are double-backed and secured.
Both checks, climber-to-belayer and belayer-to-climber, should be done before every climb.
Communication:
Communication is the key to every relationship, and in climbing, it can literally save your life. It doesn't really matter what it is that you say, as long as you and your partner know exactly what is happening at every moment. I will explain the standard excepted question/response style of communication used by most climbers.
Communication will happen before, during and after you finish a climb.
On the ground, about to climb:
Climber: "On belay"
Belayer: "Belay is on"
Climber: "Climbing"
Belayer: "Climb on"
The climber is asking if the belayer is ready, the belay responds, the climber asks if he can climb and the belayer tells him he can. The climber should not start climbing until the belay has given him the go-ahead.
After a fall:
Climber: "Climbing"
Belayer: "Climb on"
When the climber reaches the top of the climb:
Climber: "Tension"
Belayer: "Tension's on"
Climber: *lets go of rock* "Ready to lower"
Belayer: "Lowering"
The climber asks for tension to be put on the rope, and then asks to be lowered, once the belayer has confirmed that tension has been applied. If you can, climbers should look down to make sure their belayer is ready before letting go of the rock.
Back on the ground:
Climber: "Off belay"
Belayer: "Belay is off"
The climber is asking to be taken off belay. This is more useful in an outdoor setting where the belayer may not be able to see when their climber has arrived back on the ground.
The Motions of Belaying:
Belaying is made up of several very quick "cycles" strung together. Each cycle is only one or two seconds long, and should be very smooth, relaxed and comfortable. You should not have to strain unless the rope is old and thick. As well, you do not have to keep a lot of tension on the climber. All you should be doing is taking in the extra slack in the rope to minimize a fall and to keep the rope out of the climber's way. However, you need to communicate to your climber and ask how much tension he/she likes on the rope.
To clarify some terms I will be using, the "upper rope" is the section of rope between the belay device and the climber. The "lower rope" will be the rope below the belay device to the end. Your "brake hand" (right hand for right-handed people) will never leave the rope. It will slide along it, but it will never leave the rope. Never. Your guide hand will be your other hand. It can let go of the rope, but to lower, use both hands below the belay device. A "cycle" is one complete movement.
To start the cycle, you will start with your guide hand on the rope leading from the belay device to the climber, and at eye-level. Your brake hand will be on the rope one hands-breadth below the belay device. As slack builds in the system, you will then pull upwards with your brake hand to about a mid-chest level. Without moving your hand on the rope, you will then lower your brake hand back down below the belay device. Your guide hand will then leave the upper rope and grab the lower rope just below the belay device. Without taking your brake hand from the rope, you will slide it up to your guide hand. Your guide hand will then return to the upper rope at eye level. Rinse and repeat until your climber is at the top.
Once at the top, use the same motion to take in all the slack you can. Once the rope is tight, bring both hands below the belay device and let the rope slide slowly through your hands.
Conclusion:
This has been a basic overview of how to belay. Again, I strongly suggest, before going out and trying this on your own, to take a professionally taught course. Any local climbing gym will run Intro to Climbing and Belaying courses on a regular basis.
Links:
Here are some more links to other great climbing resources.
